Auburn Meadow Farm

A modern heritage foodstead

In which we trot out that old chestnut (jam) once again…

 

Sometimes Nature wraps her treasures in tricky packaging.  Wrapped like this,  she must think pretty highly of chestnuts…

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One thing I’m accepting as I learn more about turn of the century food ways is that I can’t expect to whiz in at the last minute, open a can of this and a jar of that and whip up a throwback masterpiece.

Well, not fully true; if I have the foresight to plan ahead and make sure the cans and jars have been put up well in advance, the last-minute slam dunk is still possible. That’s why I’m doing my farm-ly duty by reminding you that September is winding down, October means Halloween is just a few short weeks away and Thanksgiving is hot on its heels.

I say that not to make you hyperventilate in a state of overwhelm, but to inspire you to deliberately avoid said state of overwhelm and plan to enjoy a slower, more purposeful holiday season.

There’s no denying it; the leaves are beginning to turn and that unmistakable spicy smell of fall is in the air. In our area, it’s time for apples, crab apples, black walnuts, hickory nuts, grapes and chestnuts. All exciting and good, but it’s the chestnuts that are on my mind today.

Soon enough, the smell of roasting chestnuts will be teasing from city streets, those glossy nuts in their prickly coats will hit the ground and squirrels will be in a tail flicking frenzy of gathering and burying. Visions of varnished turkeys bursting with chestnut stuffing will be served in magazines across the land. But, did you know that the chestnuts you’ll be eating this holiday will not be from the mighty American Chestnut trees once so abundant, but instead from Oriental or European varieties and hybrids?

The Venerable American Chestnut today….

Today, we consider the Oak to be the outstanding example of great North American trees, but the American Chestnut once was mightier. Before 1904, when a horrible air-borne blight arrived from the Orient in a shipment of plants, the American chestnut was treasured for both its excellent hardwood timber and nut production.

These valuable trees grew huge and wild and made up nearly half of the national forests between Maine and Georgia. In addition, there were also large commercial chestnut orchards dedicated to growing highly valued “tree corn”. Sadly, after the arrival of the infested Oriental plants, the defenseless American chestnuts all died with devastating effect to already strapped Appalachian homesteaders. They were reliant on the chestnut’s starchy sustenance; chestnuts make a good flour, are excellent roasted and make yummy candy and sweets.

Last year, I took on the chestnut challenge. And yes, it is a challenge. Sometimes Nature wraps her treasures in tricky packaging and all I can say is that chestnuts must be pretty valuable to Her. Of course, my chestnuts were the free kind, gathered from a friend’s yard. I have aspirations for Marrons Glace (fancy for candied chestnuts) this year and will confess to thinking springing for these already peeled babies from Chestnut Growers, Inc. is a pretty fine idea.

Chestnut Jam is an impressive, unique and deliciously sweet spread. While it is very good served simply on crusty bread, I enjoyed it most combined with a tiny bit of chocolate in dessert-y ways like over vanilla ice cream (with fudge sauce), as filling for tarts, chocolate cake or on meringue topped with whipped cream. This recipe is once again from one of my favorites, Preserves: River Cottage Handbook No 2.; Pam Corbin’s contribution to the excellent River Cottage Handbooks series. Have I mentioned how much I love Pam Corbin? I don’t actually know Pam but all the same….

The printable recipe is here in our archives.

And so, such is the sad tale of the once grand American Chestnut. A very real example of the results of our human need to rearrange the universe’s furniture, not being satisfied until we eventually jam up the works. If you’d like to learn more, this is a surprisingly enjoyable read by Susan Freinkel: American Chestnut: The Life, Death and Rebirth of a Perfect Tree.

And to give due respect to the deceased, why not make this the fall you show the chestnuts the love they deserve? I promise, once you’ve got a chestnut habit, there’s no going back…

Curiously addictive and unique: Chestnut Jam

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8 comments on “In which we trot out that old chestnut (jam) once again…

  1. The Flying T Ranch
    October 2, 2011

    Great post, but it brings sadness also. A couple acres of our property have several American Chestnuts in the woods. They’re beautiful trees that start with uniquely-colored bark and easily-identifiable sawtooth leaves. Tragically, what makes them easiest to find is that before they get wrist-diameter, the blight appears about eye level, and the sapling bulges and splits, killing the tree. More shoots appear from the old stump where the previous started, but they all die at the same stage.

    So sad.

    But what a beautiful specimen you’ve found to photograph! Is it still alive?

    • Auburn Meadow Farm
      October 2, 2011

      Thanks so much for reading; I thought it was a sad loss too.
      I had read that shoots continued to try growing from the stumps but didn’t make it much past 20 – 30′.
      I wouldn’t know where to find an American Chestnut around here these days – I have to admit I didn’t take the photo myself.

  2. Kelly
    October 3, 2011

    Can you do this safely with a boiling water canner, or must it be pressure canned? I am new to canning & don’t yet have a pressure canner.
    Thanks!

    • Auburn Meadow Farm
      October 3, 2011

      Hi Kelly,
      I tend to be a little fearless about this sort of thing. The River Cottage Handbook No.2 was my source and did not call for pressure canning. I don’t have a pressure canner either. On Facebook there was some discussion of this as well. I believe the sugar content makes it work – I can only say I used a jar last week that I put up last fall and it was fine. My guess is it probably wouldn’t get a wholehearted thumbs up from the USDA….

      Great to hear you’ve started canning!

  3. Rebecca @ Eating Floyd
    October 7, 2011

    How long did you process the jam? I may have overlooked it but I can’t find a time.

    • Auburn Meadow Farm
      October 7, 2011

      Hi Rebecca,
      Thanks for reading – I really enjoy your blog.

      This would not likely be USDA approved – in this case, Pam Corbin puts the warm jam into sterilized jars and twists on the lids right away. I did this and all my jars sealed without incident. I’m no scientist and recommend you use your own judgment, but I would probably just use a boiling water bath and process pints or quarts 20 minutes.

  4. Renee
    October 16, 2012

    Hello,

    I just wanted point out that the first chesnut pictured is actually a Horse Chestnut, and it is toxic. You can tell because the pod is not hairy/prickly. They have a terrible bitterness about them, but they taste fine for the first 30 seconds of chewing…that’s the dangerous part, by the time they taste toxic, most people have already swallowed some. If swallowed, one will not die, but they will experience some pretty painful GI distress and vomiting.

    Also, where is the recipe for the jam, it looks great!

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This entry was posted on September 29, 2011 by in Eating Local, Food, Preserving the Harvest, Recipes and tagged , , , , .
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