by jackie | Nov 24, 2024 | Books, Cheese, DIY, Food, Holiday DIY, Holidays, Homemade Liquor
Recently, a chat with a friend about holiday spreads set me off pondering a thing I have casually noticed, but never really pondered. My friend used the phrase “I’m known for”.
I have no idea what I am “known for” with regard to specific dishes though you all may feel differently. I honestly have never planned a menu with my signature in mind, and it reminded me sharply of my own family holiday traditions.
I recognized early that there were things “owned” by my mom or her sisters, and those were items that I unconsciously but deliberately did not include on my own holiday table. And honestly, now that my Mom and her sisters are gone, there are massive tradition gaps that are a bit confusing. Is it more respectful to try to recreate? Or is it better to simply feel the absence of the dish and reminisce the contributions and gifts of the missed person? Still working my way through that one, what do you think?
I also noticed that my Mom was not one to avoid someone else’s signature thing, and her cookie tray, while specific and recognizable as hers, included some items that were really signature to one or the other of her sisters.
For my own table, I am guided by my interests, my ethics, and things I want to try. Ingredients I have learned about and am exploring, places I have visited and been inspired by, and generally I am more about process than final product. Things that excited me, that I want to share. I am also motivated to make the spread non-performative, and one that allows me to be a guest at my own party as much as possible.
Densely packed dates, walnuts, apricots, and cherries barely held together with buckwheat flour and very little sugar.
A thing I am very interested in is the more European mindset about pastries and baked goods. Removed from the insanity of mental guilt, cravings, poor nutrition and addictive behaviors inspired by American marketing and advertising, desserts here have become so emotionally complicated. But guess what? They are food. Nutritious food when made with nutritious ingredients.
By swapping whole, ancient, and non-wheat flours & nuts for our nutritionally stripped commodity ingredients, desserts can be returned to their rightful, satiating, and sane place in our everyday diet. And that is precisely the focus of Alice Medrich’s beautiful book, “Flavor Flours”.
I started with buckwheat, because we have a local mill selling their own flour at our local feed store and meat market and it easily presented itself. I did not know yet that buckwheat was not a true grain, but is in fact related to sorrel and rhubarb. Yet, the seeds can be cooked like a grain, and made into flour, and are considered a pseudo-grain. It can have a robust, earthy flavor, and the treatment of the flour matters more than we are used to, yielding varying textures.
To my surprise, both buckwheat recipes I tried from the book ended up disappointing with their blandness. Perhaps my expectations were set too high by lovely descriptives like flowery, rose, and honey and praise for the magical quality added by the buckwheat flour. Which was not untrue, but still not as magical as I expected.
Not ready to give up just yet. I recalled a thing that maybe I was once known for on my holiday baking trays. I used to make these fancy little miniature almond-orange cakes that were finished off with a glaze that was memorable. That glaze made the cakes age so well, and took on a bit of a crystalline quality that I just loved.
And that glaze idea was exactly the thing that makes this date nut cake with cherries and buckwheat a signature thing. But I’m gonna tell you right off, this cake is poorly named. I would not use the word cake, or bread to describe it. It is dense, packed with fruit and nuts, and very little sugar. The batter is just enough to bind the fruit & nut mix into a sliceable loaf. A little goes a long way, carved super thin, the slices look beautiful on a charcuterie board, and pair well with butter, cream cheese, and stronger cheeses – I found the stilton in huntsman to be extra nice.
For the finishing glaze, most liquors you have on hand should be fine excepting things like gin. Brandy always works, Contreau, whiskey, schnapps… I happened to have been gifted a bottle of cherry liquor brought by a friend from Lisbon, and that extra fruitiness was subtle perfection. Homebrew liquor could be very nice.
About the book, “Flavor Flours.” It. Is. LOVELY. GORGEOUS. EQUISITE even.
The Carnegie Library has three available copies, and Alice Medrich has also expanded this topic into another separate book, Flavor Flours Gluten Free. But, this is not the book I would recommend if you are just beginning a journey away from processed foods and looking for practical knowledge to apply to your everyday meals. This is all about digging deeper into non-commodity baked goods.
- 1/2 + 2TBS cup buckwheat flour 70 grams
- 1/8 tsp baking soda
- 1/8 tsp baking powder
- 1/4 tsp salt I use Morton's kosher
- 3 Tbs firmly packed brown sugar 35 grams
- 1 cup dates pitted and cut into quarters 175 grams
- 1/4 cup lightly packed dried apricot halves or dried pluots cut in half 40 grams
- 1/4 cup dried tart or Bing cherries 40 grams
- 1-3/4 cup walnut pieces 175 grams
- 2 eggs large
- 1-1/4 tsp pure vanilla extract
- 3 TBS liquor Brandy, whiskey, schnapps, etc
- 2 tsp water
- 1/3 cup granulated sugar
- 1 TBS butter calls for unsalted, but salted is fine
8x4 (four cup) loaf pan
parchament paper
Line an 8 x 4-inch loaf pan, bottom and all four sides wth parchament paper
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 300°F
In a large bowl, whisk the flour with the baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Add brown sugar, dates, apricots, cherries and walnuts, and mix thoroughly with your fingers, separating any sticky fruit pieces. Set aside
Whisk the eggs ad vanilla in a medium bowl until lightened in color. Scrape the misture into the fruit & nut mixtureand mix gently with a spatula until all the pieces are coated with batter. Scrape into the prepared pan
To make the glaze, in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the Grand Marnier, water, granulated sugar and butter and heat until the butter melts, about 1 1⁄2 minutes. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and let cool for 1 minute.
Bake for 60 - 80 minutes, until the top feels firm and crusted. Brush the warm cakes with the glaze; allow to cool in the pan on a rack. Let cool completely before serving.
Using the parchament paper, lift the loaf from the pan and transfer to a cutting board. Use a sharp knife to cut very thin slices. This cake can be stored, airtight for at least 1 week at room temperature, longer in the refrigerator. I wrap in waxed paper. Makes an excellent gift.
by jackie | Mar 29, 2024 | Blog, Books, Care of the Soul, Change, DIY, Eating Local, Every Single Morsel, Grab-and-Go, Holidays, Pastured Eggs, Recipes
To be honest, I was very, very late to discover the joy that is pickled eggs. I worked in restaurants and bars and saw plenty of giant jars of rubbery, bouncy, sketchy ones, and was never tempted. And then I got chickens.
Adapt to the fluctuating abundance of raising your own eggs, and wow. What the supermarket has left out when it comes to categories, flavors and textures in order to focus on extended shelf life and easy transport is a real paradigm shift.
Homemade pickled eggs are perfect because they extend the storage life of good eggs, are delicious, quick, and easy. Good brine can be reused, so when the jar’s empty, you can replenish several times, just make sure the next batch is completely covered with brine.
This weekend odds are good that you’re going to find your fridge crowded with a bunch of hard boiled eggs, and there’s only so much egg salad any person can take. Pickled eggs give you a nutritionally perfect, protein-packed snack on the fly, especially when made wth truly pastured eggs. They make fast and fantastic sandwiches, toppings for salads and hashes, drop into broth, Deviled eggs are next level made wth pickled eggs, and, if you want to get ambitious, bake some into a meatloaf, or use them to make Scotch eggs.
There’s lots of recipes for brine flavors online too; I’m not a fan of the sweet/sour beet one, though it is popular. I prefer flavors like this, plus bonus for being simple and quick.
I found some fresh takes from this book on options for making full use of my CSA shares last summer, and highly recommend it. At the Carnegie Library of Pittsburgh, they have 6 copies, go get you one! Now is an excellent time for perusing the library for summer ideas.
- 1 dozen eggs Go for the good ones - preferably truly pastured
- 1-1/4 cup white-wine or apple-cider vinegar
- 1/4 cup Sriracha Hot Chili sauce adjust for taste
- 1 tsp kosher salt
- 2 bay leaves
Put raw eggs into a pot large enough to accommodate them in one layer, and cover by at least 1-inch of water. Bring to a boil, turn off the heat, and simmer for 11 minutes. Immediately plunge the eggs into a basin of ice water. Crack the eggs gently, and allow them to rest in the water for about 5 minutes to loosen the shells, then peel*.
Pack the cooked, peeled eggs into a very clean sterilized wide mouth quart jar. You can press them in gently, but to jam too many and push too hard will cause the eggs to split.
Combine the vinegar, Sriracha, salt, and bay leaves in a saucepan, and bring to a boil. Ladle the hot liquid over the eggs to completely cover, leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Put a lid on the jar and allow to cool at room temp, then store in the refrigerator.
*Note: if using very fresh farm eggs, it can be a struggle to achieve perfectly peeled eggs. I prefer to use older eggs, and resting the carton on its side will help center the yolks before boiling.
by jackie | Mar 16, 2024 | Blog, Books, History, Holidays, Pantry, Recipes, St. Patrick's Day, Things We Love, Uncategorized, Unprocessed, Whole Grains
Ireland has a lot to offer in the way of lessons about the intersection of food soveriegnty and empire-building, but she also has much magic, mirth, and devotion to the ingredients of home. While other peasant cultures are colorful and spicy, Ireland’s unique gift was the juxtaposition of salty sea air and arguably the best grass in the world. Hence, legendary cattle and dairy. So, the basic ingredients of much Irish cuisine are white in color, and rooted in the devotional ways of tending the family cow. Because of the extraordinary quality of the raw milk, the foods may be white, but are anything but bland.
Darina Allen, commonly known as “The Julia Child of Ireland”, has written several books that have brought much joy to my table and garden. While very wordly and modern, Darina is also very much rooted iin the old ways and traditions of Ireland, using raw milk from her own pastured cows, eggs gathered from free ranging chickens, foraging for wild herbs, mushrooms and hedgerow fruits.
About this bread, she says, “In our household of nine children, Mummy made this bread virtually very day of her life, well into her 80’s. She always had a light hand at baking. Whevever we were, her bread was on of the things that we looked forward to when we came home for a few days. So many happy memories are made at the kitchen table.”
And what could be more fitting than to, on this day of celebrating Ireland, to bake a simple, inexpensive bread with instructions calling for blessing the bread, and letting the fairies out? However you celebrate, highly recommend you spend a minute learning about and reflecting upon the Irish “Troubles.” Spoiler: It was more than a crop failure. And then, do what the Irish have always done and get on wtih keeping on and making merry with what you’lve got.
St. Patrick’s Day blessings to you – “Beannachtaí na Féile Pádraig dhuit!”
Mummy’s Brown Soda Bread, Darina Allen, “Forgotten Skills of Cooking” p199
- 2 cups White Whole Wheat King Arthur White Whole Wheat works well
- 2 cups All Purpose Flour
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 tsp baking soda sifted
- 1-1/2 - 2 cups buttermilk
Preheat the oven to 450°F.
Mix flour in a large, wide bowl, then add the salt and baking soda. Lift the flour up with your fingers to distribute the ingredients evenly.
Make a well in the center and pour in 1-1/2 cups of the buttermilk. With your fingers stiff and outstretched like a claw, stir in a circular movement from the center to the outside of the bolt in ever increasing concentric circles. When you reach the outside of the bowl seconds later, the dough is made. (Should it still be dry, add the remaining 1/2 cup buttermilk and distribute).
Sprinkle a little flour on the countertop. Place the dough onto the flour. (Fill the bowl with cold water now so it will be easy to wash later.) Wash and dry your hands to make it easier to handle the dough.
Sprinkle a little flour onto your hands. Gently tidy the ball of dough tucking the edges underneath with the inner edge of your hands. Pat the dough gently with your fingers to flatten it slightly into a found loaf about 1-1/2” thick. Slide one hand underneath, and with your other hand on top, transfer the dough to a baking sheet.
Cut a deep cross into the bead (this is called “blessing the bread”) and then prick it in the center of each of the four sections to “let the fairies out.” There’s also a tactical reason for doing this - the last part of the loaf to bake fully is the center, so cutting the cross opens out the center during cooking, allowing the heat to penetrate more evenly.
Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 400°F and cook for a further 15 minutes. Turn the bread upside down and cook for a further 5-10 minutes, until cooked (the bottom should sound hollow when tapped). Cool on a wire rack.
Rashers, homemade brown soda bread slathered with butter, and pastured eggs ☘️
by jackie | Dec 14, 2023 | Care of the Soul, Cookies, General Wonderment, Holiday DIY, Holidays, Recipes, Seasonal, Things We Love, Whole Grains
St. Lucy’s Feast Day is celebrated December 13, though since Gregorian calendar reform, the feast day no longer lands on the eve of Winter Solstice as it once did, so the focus on light may feel a little puzzling at first.
I find St. Lucy’s Feast to be a nice advent to Winter Solstice, reminding me to pay attention and give presence to the significance and power of the shortest day & longest night. Though the worst of winter lies just ahead, the significance of knowing the days are growing longer is a huge lifter of spirit, and truly a yearly event worth celebrating.
To mark a feast day with many food references to sunshine and magic, what could call to mind sunshine more than yellow corn cookies in the shape of the sun? Simple, gluten-free, and virtuous while still being delightful and celebratory. Plus, simple, earthy, and unfussy.
I am all for a category of sweets that is regular part of a nutrient dense, locally sourced everyday diet, not a shameful guilt-inducing lack of discipline, how about you?
- 1/3 cup dried currants
- 1-1/2 cups masa harina
- 1 cup raw fine yellow cornmeal
- Pinch salt
- 10 TBS unsalted butter melted
- 3 large egg yolks beaten
- 1/3 cup sugar
- 1/2 tsp baking soda
- Grated zest of 1 large lemon
Preheat oven to 375° F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
Put the currants in a bowl and cover with hot water, let soak until soft.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the masa marina, yellow cornmeal, and salt. Using a rubber spatula, stir in the butter.
In a medium bowl, whist together the egg yolks, sugar, baking soda, and lemon zest. Pour the mixture into the masa marina mixture and stir to combine. Drain the currants, reserving the soaking water; add the currants to the dough and knead gently in the bowl with your hands until the dough is thoroughly combined, sprinkling in up to 4 TBS of the currant soaking liquid little at a time to make a dough that holds together when you squeeze it.
Scoop up a rounded tablespoon-size chunk of dough and squeeze it into a ball; flatten it between your palms to make a 1/4-inch thick round and place it on the prepared baking sheet. (Or, drop the batter onto the cookie sheet and use a decorative cookie stamp to make it festive.)
Repeat with the remaining dough, arranging cookies 1" apart. Bake until golden brown at the edges and firm in the centers, about 12 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through so they brown evenly.
Let cool on the pans for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire racks to cool.
by jackie | Feb 14, 2021 | DAIRY, DIY, Holiday DIY, Holidays, Recipes, Seasonal, Things We Love, Valentine
Grand gestures are showy, but quiet, small ones are sweeter.
Today is that favorite day of retailers, florists and restauranteurs everywhere, Valentine’s Day.
Here in Pennsylvania, we’ve been very fortunate here with the mildness of our winter so far – unlike those of you suffering some real damage and hardship, we’re mostly just inconvenienced and fatigued. The kind of weariness that can be soothed with a steamy, creamy cup of home-made cocoa.
I nixxed commercial hot chocolate powders a long time ago in favor of the old-fashioned, off the package Hershey’s cocoa recipe that my mom used to make. Real milk, cocoa, salt, sugar and a bit of vanilla – all things found in an average kitchen. At home, it’s not really any more work, and the results are so worth it. Once you’ve spoiled yourself, you’ll want to keep a pint jar in your fridge at all times.
But then, one day, this really lovely post from Molly at Remedial Eating stopped me in my tracks. Something I had to try ASAP. And I’m so glad I did. This is one of the nicest, sweetest DIY gift ideas around – a jar of chocolate ganache ready to spoon into heated milk for a perfectly delicious, creamy, real cup of steaming cocoa.
Hot Chocolate Base (Ganache)
Yield: 2 generous cups ganache (enough for 2 dozen+ mugs of hot cocoa)
This makes a light ganache (1:1), scoop-able straight from the fridge. For firm truffles and heartier frostings, a 2:1 chocolate:cream ratio gives greater body and intensity. FYI.
1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream (not ultra-pasteurized, if possible)
12 ounces semisweet chocolate (3 – 4 oz. bars)
Snap chocolate bars into a large, heat-proof bowl. Heat cream over medium, until the first bubble breaks, then remove from heat and pour over chocolate shards. Let sit 5 minutes, then whisk gently to combine, 1-2 minutes. Pour into jar, and refrigerate, up to 1 month.
To Make Hot Cocoa:
Heat milk (2% or whole), as much as you want, over medium heat, until steaming. (Alternatively, for one mug, microwave). Add ganache to hot milk: I use 1 heaping tablespoon per 8 ounces of milk, though there are those under my roof who argue 2 tablespoons are far superior. And no, I don’t measure. Eyeball it. Stir ganache into hot milk until dissolved, 10-15 seconds, taste, and add more, if desired. Pour into mugs, top as desired (whipped cream, marshmallows), wrap fingers ’round, and give thanks for winter.
Who am I kidding? 1-2 TBS? No way. Try 3, or even 4!
So, if you’re still struggling for not-too-big, not-too-small DIY gift ideas, here you go – you still have time. A nice jar of homemade chocolate ganache for a steamy cup of ready-made love for your beloved.
And, if heating milk sounds like too much work, there’s always spoon truffles. Spoon truffles? You know exactly what I’m talking about – no double dipping!
by jackie | Dec 4, 2020 | Cookies, Dessert, DIY, Holiday DIY, Holidays, Recipes, Things We Love
What can I do today, before the rush is on, to be ready for last minute gifts, kind neighborly gestures, and unexpected visits? Make recipes for rolls of unbaked refrigerator cookies, portioned into gift-sized logs, wrapped in waxed paper, and stashed in the freezer for gifting or fresh-baked cookies in minutes..
Like many retro, forgotten ways, Icebox cookies add a simple, convenient and downright elegant trick to your pantry that will help preserve that element of snacking spontaneity we all love so much. They come in filled swirls, basic shortbread styles, with and without fruit and can be dipped in chocolate for an extra degree of fanciness.
The logs require almost no time to thaw enough to slice, arrange on a baking sheet, bake & cool. Thoughtfully wrapped with a recipe tag, they make a small and lovely gift. I like that since they have to be baked, you can save them for later, after the overload of sweets and snacks has passed.
Here are three of my current favorite recipes for Icebox cookies:
Salted Rye Cookies
- Golden Raisin Icebox Cookies – tender, crisp & rich, these are both rustic and sophisticated.
- Fruit Swirls – an extra bonus to this one is the recipe uses no processed sugar. Instead, use honey and dried fruit. They’re tender, rich and easily adaptable for a variety of flavors.
- My current obsession: Salted Rye Cookies. I love crunchy sugar crystals and was completely taken by this idea: these earthy rye rounds are rolled in a crunchy, crystal-ey mixture of coarse sugar and salt. Brilliant.
And, not just a DIY gift idea, icebox cookies are a great everyday pantry trick for anyone interested in real foods.
Fruit Swirls, no sugar. One recipe, divided into four logs, wrapped in waxed paper for gifting or baking.
Why do I love prepared snacks in my freezer?
- simple strategy for portion control – divide the dough into smaller logs and only bake what you need
- a quick, fun after school treat kids can make themselves
- something special on hand to feed unexpected visitors
- strategy to keep those overly processed commercial cookies out of your pantry
- your kid tells you at 9 pm they need to bring cookies to class tomorrow – no biggie
In these days of pandemic, old fashioned neighboring is more meaningful than ever. What sweeter way to check on your neighbors than by gifting them a thoughtful log of ready-to-bake cookies?
