This is a recipe adapted from the alternate filling from leftover sugo meat recipe from Paul Bertolli’s Cooking by Hand. What can I say about this book? A book for thinking cooks, I couldn’t wear this one out in a lifetime of hard kitchen use. Cooking from the bottom up, or the brain down, the result of so much diligent observation is here for all to share. Can you tell I really like this book?

Sugo is a meat stock deepened exponentially by repeated deglazing and reheating. After making stock from fresh bones and meat, you are left with the long, slow, cooked ’till super-tender meats used in the broth. Please don’t tell me you throw this away – it is wonderful for making this rich, silky filling for ravioli or other stuffed dishes. Or at least throw it into lasagna or other simple sauce.

12 ounces meat left from making stock
1 ounce cured Italian salame, mortadella or Tesa
1 1/2 ounces Parmigianno-Reggiano, grated
2 Tablespoons butter, softened
1/3 cup freshly chopped Italian parsley
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Pick through the braised meat to remove any bones or cartilage.  Combine the sugo meat and the cured meat.

Grind it through the finest plate of a meat grinder or chop in a food processor to a fine consistency.

Transfer the meat to a bowl and add the Parmigiano, parsley, butter and the nutmeg.

Stir all the ingredients together and correct the mixture to your taste for salt and pepper.